More Mumbai

Since yesterday was spent mainly indoors, no real pictures of interest can be provided. Neither have I experienced anything particularly fascinating about India. I did manage to catch two scenes during the buss ride to the meeting.

The first is another balcony scene. The balconies of Mumbai are used in a more efficient way than in European countries, they are also a lot more colorful.

The second is a fleet of moped cabs (donâ??t know the official name), these small almost brittle constructions weave through traffic with a contempt of danger which few can muster. Also look at the digital display. Some traffic lights in Mumbai have a digital countdown until the lights turn green. But I have also noted that most vehicles tend to start rolling forward 5 seconds before the time â?? a habit which not only defies the purpose but also threatens traffic.

Mumbai Wildlife

Last night before going to be I saw a cockroach scuttling over the back of the sofa in my room. I know they are clean and harmless â?? they still give me the creeps. Otherwise Mumbai wildlife is a bit disappointing. No elephants have been spotted at all. Some (not many) cows, goats and cats. The most visible wildlife in the city are the dogs that sleep all day. These are medium sized shorthaired mongrels. More domestic pedigree dogs are walked on a leash.

The other common animals in the city are the ubiquitous crows, small with impressive beaks, they seem to be crowing everywhere in load sounds which demand attention. In general the animals are kindly ignored â?? not sure if this is kind but it beats the traditional cruelty.

Long Long Day

Too many impressions and a long long day. Walked around and found a bookstore where I bought Amartya Senâ??s Identity and Violence â?? The Illusion of Destiny and an anthology edited by Thussu & Freedman entitled War and the Media – Reporting Conflict 24/7.

Then we went to the Indian Institute of Technology to be present at the Creative Commons India launch â?? Welcome! There were speeches by (among others) Joichi Ito & Lawrence Liang which was followed by dinner and conversation. Now itâ??s late and tomorrow is an early start.

Pictures from Mumbai

The day was a long one and it is difficult to choose pictures which show something of the city. The first is the fire-fighting readiness at the petrol station on our road. The area is both residential and highly trafficked.

The second is a ordinary block of flats -washing hanging to dry adds color and an exotic flavor in comparison with the Nokia sign below.

The third is the sign at a restaurant notifying that no alcohol is served on this day. Today was the day of independence and to avoid any risks of public drunkenness – no alcohol may be served.

The fourth is a night image of a taxi rushing by. The light and movement is what Mumbai seems to be all about…

The smell of a city

Places smell. Usually the smell of a place is ignored since it is familiar to us. But the smell of places is, in part, what makes us fell comfortable or uncomfortable. This becomes more obvious when we are met with an unusual smell (either good or bad). The good/bad smell sticks out and is therefore a challenge to the norm.

But our sense of smell is also stored in our memories. Mumbai is a hot, messy city. Some of the dusty and plainly less attractive scents have reminded me of my childhood in Malta. It isnâ??t that I enjoy these smells â?? itâ??s just that they are familiar to me.

Take for example the hotel room. Our rooms at the hotel are liberally sprinkled with mothballs. No I donâ??t mean that there are one or two at the back of the cupboard â?? I mean they are everywhere: In the cupboard, on the floor (they tend to congregate in the corners of the room), in the sink and in the bath. It is not due to the fact that the manager is paranoid about moths or the fact that they probably act as repellent against other nasty creepy crawlies â?? we have been informed that the management (maybe all the staff) recognize the smell of mothballs as the smell of cleanliness.

For me the smell of mothballs takes me back to when we would by a new school blazer. The shops storeroom always smelled of mothballs. Every blazer was in a plastic cover that always contained a few of the white marbles. They fascinated me as a child and I had to be reminded often that they were poisonous.

Other nostalgic smells are things like humid heat, rotting produce and horse pee in 30-degree heat. New smells include incense, food sold in stalls, and a mixture that for me is outdoor Mumbai since there is a (not unpleasant) different smell to the place.

BBC on Nostalgic smells.

Images of Mumbai

Naturally I cannot post them all but here are three of my impressions from the first day in Mumbai. The first is a shrine in a shop selling mobile telephones – the contrast seems to me to be typical India. Only been here one day so I don’t know if I should be using words like typical – yet.

The second is a street scene full of life and color.

The third is the barbershop on the pavement. It is so unusual that I almost feel like having a shave there…

Mumbai Day One

As day one draws to a close I am full of impressions. On the way from the airport we passed the huge slums and it is easy to be filled with pain seeing the plight of these people who just want to get on with their lives. In the city there is sadness and poverty â?? as tourists we are legitimate targets and (beggars of all kinds hope) cash cows. It may be easy to get trapped in the negative which at first glance can be seen everywhere in this decaying and progressing city. But the idea is not to let this impression take the upper hand.

Many of the houses in the city are struggling against decay but this in itself is not ugly. More like an old man who has fallen on bad times, underneath the surface there is much to be admired. There may be much sadness but there is also an incredible energy and joy in this city. There are literally people everywhere, all talking all gesticulating, discussing holding hands and walking around.

The traffic is chaos â?? the most necessary part of the car is the horn, followed by the accelerator and steering wheel. The rest of the car seems to be there for decoration. The cars are surrounded by taxis and motorbikes, all honking and weaving through traffic with careless abandon. Women do not drive (at least none that I have seen) and on motorbikes they must sit sidesaddle (almost all of them).

Today we walked around the city, saw the Gateway to India and went to the museum of Mumbai which was a eclectic collection of artifacts all connected to the city in some way.

Now its passed midnight â?? I cannot remember when I last slept. My head is spinning with new impressions and thoughts while the city prepares for a few hours of rest before life returns tomorrow.

Everything is different

In India everything is different. It’s exciting, challenging and a bit frustrating. But very interesting. The main annoyance right now is the flaky Internet connection which seems not to be so bad – but very temperamental…

Onwards to Mumbai

We flew to Goa on a plane filled with vacationers – happy people longing for sunshine. The eight-hour trip was bearable. In Goa we picked up our luggage and headed for the departure lounge. It was Air India to Mumbai. Passport checks, security checks, waiting at the gate all over again. The one hour flight seemed longer than it was, but at least we got served an Indian breakfast.

At the airport we were met by our driver, who proceeded to honk his way through the mad Mumbai traffic. Pedestrians, taxis, motorbikes, bicycles, cars in a mad display of disorganization moved and honked there way from the airport to the hotel. We passed several slums â?? including one, which our driver notified us was the largest in Asia. Again the value of human life was present. The value of real estate on the other hand was on par with any expensive city. This is a surreal place.

Now after almost an hours rest at the hotel we go out to see the city. Dead tired really. Not much sleep in the last 28 hours but to sleep now seems wrong somehowâ?¦

Somewhere over Istanbul

The East begins here for me. I guess that from here I shall have to be aware of my own preconceived ideas of what is to be expected but despite my understanding of this my hopes and expectations are battling with my understanding that all my impressions should be neutral. A myth if nothing else.

Jonas and I were early at the airport. The plane however was not. Due to weather conditions the plane was so late that we missed our connection and after a great deal of confusion were rebooked. As I write this we are flying towards Goa. Once in Goa we transfer to a plane to Mumbai. Unfortunately this plane is 1.5 hours late so we will probably miss this connection too. At least we are on the right continent.

Missing connections is a stressful experience â?? but we are both very relaxed. We have discussed taking a train as an alternative method of reaching Mumbai. Why this relaxed attitude. In part itâ??s because we have no alternative. In part itâ??s because this is the way we both are. In part itâ??s because of the corpse in Frankfurt.

Airline delays fade into insignificance. While walking rapidly to our gate hoping that our plane was still there we walked past a part of the corridor which was cordoned off. First I saw the police, then the medics and finally the patient (ex-patient) lying on the floor. Stripped to the waist. A tube in his mouth. The medics were packing up their equipment. There was an eerie air of professionalism among the police and medics packing their equipment and waiting for transportation as we powerwalked past the scene.

All of a sudden rushing to gates, delayed flights and deadlines seemed insignificant. Still in Germany but human life is in the forefront. How petty are the problems I focus uponâ?¦